Mortarstown, Co. Carlow

Mortarstown lies within the meanders of the stately River Barrow just 2 miles south west of Carlow. Here Evan McDonnell farms on the river’s flood plain, enriched by silt and alluvium. The area is shaped by the Weichsel Glaciation, with its resultant glacial till of mainly limestone origin; the Elton series is said to be the most fertile land in Co. Carlow.

Appearance: Old gold with legs that look like sun rays.

Nose: Dark chocolate, raisins, plums, cherries, fruit cake, hay dust earthy, apple drop sweets, liquorice, almonds, cloves, blood orange and cinnamon.

Taste: Ripe banana, barley sugar sweets, cloves, peppercorns, green peppers, coconut, herbal tea, lime mint leaf and liquorice.

Finish: Light spice with dryness that gently meanders into contentment.

A dry and warm Summers day at Mortarstown. This track starts out on the banks of the River Barrow, which forms a boundary on the western edge of the farm as it runs past, heading south. Moving east, away from the river and into the fields, the sound is busy with wildlife. A light breeze blows through the barley. Traffic travels past on the nearby Leighlin Road. Heading back towards the yard, and with rain forecast, the McDonnells are finishing off the silage in some of the smaller fields.