KNOCKROE, CO. KILDARE

East of the River Barrow, Kenneth Ashmore’s rolling lowland farm, Knockroe – An Cnoc Rua, Red Hill – stands on the Bo Choill Road east of Maganey, which runs towards the old town of Castledermot. In an ancient landscape scattered with Bronze Age remnants, the well-drained and quick-drying sandy loams, derived from limestone, make for good tilling in the early spring – ideal for a long barley growing season.

Appearance: A yellow gold with oily legs that grip the glass like a free mountain climber.

Nose: Dried flowers with fern and sage, dry hay , warm lavender, buttery, dried tea, porridge, milk chocolate, toasted bread, grapefruit, cloves, fudge and ripe banana.

Taste: Cloves, black pepper, ginger, custard, tobacco, malty, soft spices, citrus peel, blood orange, dark chocolate and lemon posset.

 Finish: A gentle oily spice that leaves a hint of ginger and lemon.

This track starts out in the yard at Knockroe. A warm summer day surrounded by birds making the most of the good weather. Swallows overhead on the power lines, crows and pigeons on the sheds and in the trees. We head out into the nearest field and down the tree-lined headland. The birds are quieter here, cars pass by on the road adjacent and you can hear the grain crackling as it ripens in the sun. We leave this smaller field behind and head down the lane behind the yard to a much bigger and more open field. In the distance a neighbouring farmer has begun the harvest.