BALLYMORGAN, CO. WEXFORD

In the rain shadow of the Wicklow Mountains, the Slaney river winds its way southwards through County Wexford. Here Robert Milne exploits one of Ireland’s premier barley terroirs. Farming now with his son and nephew, five generations of his family have farmed these fertile fields with their loamy, clay soils derived from slate and granite, and where the famous Clonroche Series of soils dominates.

There’s something about the spirit derived from Robert’s barley in 2015. In our tastings at the distillery, we have been drawn to glass containing his whisky particularly frequently, and we’re delighted to share it with drinkers.

Appearance: A golden hue that reminds me of a morning sunrise, with oils that hold like a yoga pose.

Nose: Dried herbs, malt, red apple, plums, milk chocolate, vanilla, fennel seeds and custard.

Taste: Apple crumble with toffee, milk chocolate, slight fudge, cloves, a green apple collated in caramel, with pepper heat and aniseed.

Finish: Lingering spice heat with a mouth-watering oiliness that turns mouth puckering.

A tractor arrives nearby. The driver gets out and strolls through a gate into the barley fields. It’s a perfectly still day at first, busy with wildlife in the warm sunlight. We listen for a while and, as the wind picks up, we hear the barley rustling, and an old rusty gate coming to life in the breeze.